What do you do on the Camino when it rains?
Answer: walk!
Today I left Portomarin looking at the last bit of elevation left on the Camino. Portomarin is at 1400' and the high point of the day was Sierra Ligonde at 2400'.
I would need to ascend this in nine miles so really it seemed to be quite doable considering what I'd already been through.
There are a couple of new factors since Sarria. One is that the number of pilgrims has grown remarkably. The minimum number of kilometers that can be walked and still qualify for a Compestela is 100 and Sarria is just beyond that number so most Spanish pilgrims begin in Sarria and walk only the last 100k.
The mood seemed to change along with the increase of numbers. Where before there has been a sort of comaradery among the walkers, with a lot of friendly "Buen Caminos" being shared, many of the new pilgrims seem to be in a different place. Perhaps they are nervous, or busy trying to spot the yellow arrows? Or maybe it's just me after a month on the trail.
The other factor dampening the mood literally is rain. Today it rained the entire day, often very hard especially around the peak.
I still continued to exercise my climbing ability and since my hip has improved, thanks to many prayers, I was able to hike the first three hours to the top in fine fashion. The encouragement for today was the knowledge that this is the final mountain to cross. After this it is mostly downhill.
So, I hiked uphill in a sea of pilgrims, in the pouring rain, and was still happy!
I met and walked for a while with Edward a Frenchman, probably 35 years old, who lives in Germany, and he reflected on the neglected state of the churches, wondering what will happen to them.
He had attended mass in the Monastery in Samos, an ancient and sacred place,
and he said there were only 8 monks and most of them were very old.
No answers, just questions.
Well, I found an electric clothes dryer for my clothes so I will be dry to begin the day tomorrow. We'll see how long it lasts as it is forecast to rain for the next three days.
The good news is that I can still walk, I have good rain gear and I am three days from my goal. Beth will be leaving Tulsa tomorrow in order to be in Santiago for our Saturday meeting.
Buen Camino!
2 comments:
So how does it feel to be on the doorstep of completion? Satisfaction, relief, disappointment? I would guess a little of each. Way to go Jerry!
Yes, I am ready to not walk for a while, but I need to do 26 more miles! 14 tomorrow and 12 on Saturday. It's been raining constantly for the past two days and is predicted to continue through Saturday! That's how it goes.
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